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Memories of my Youth
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Mike Humeston
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 Posted: Sun Feb 8th, 2004 06:38 am

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Thanks for the article on Allapattah. I was born near there and it brought back many memories of my youth. I used to go to the Doctors' office there and sit with many Seminole kids and mothers in the office of Dr Conger waiting to be stitched or treated for "ringworm". Dr. Conger, and later his daughter, Dr. Helen C. Dayton were the only Drs. we could afford. I used to go fishing with a friend of mine I met while being treated there. His name as I recall was Jimmie Tigertail. We would go to a place his grandfather loved to catch mullet at, near Little River. We also went to a large mound out on the edge of the Everglades near what was then the "Big Bend of the Palmetto Expressway". Lots of Seminoles would visit there at certain times of the year. Anyway, thanks for your web page and I will check on it from time to time. Boise, Idaho

Last edited on Mon Feb 9th, 2004 04:58 am by bessnfloyd

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 Posted: Sun Feb 8th, 2004 06:41 am

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In 1959 and 1960 we often were in the Little River area, which was already pretty built up, but the water was still clear all the way to the bottom.  You could see the manatees swimming and munching, and people would throw them lettuce.  The banks were usually lined with fisherman, both black and white, men and women, and quite a few young boys.  Many had strings of fish, clearly visible, dangling in the water to keep fresh until they finished.    Alas, the water is now so polluted a person would have to be stupid or starving to eat fish from Little River or most any waterway in eastern Dade County.  Even fish out in the Everglades are full of mercury from unknown sources, and people are advised to eat them only once every week or two, and pregnant women not at all.  

When we moved into Allapattah, I believe Dr. Conger and his daughter were no longer here.  The Conger Building still stood,  a huge Spanish Stucco structure, painted that unfortunate shade of yellow-tan often referred to as baby-sh** color.  Many an emergency arm-setting,  appendectomy or other major surgery had taken place there, at a time when one had to have lots of cold cash to be admitted to a hospital.  Dr. Conger was a legend - not all doctors at that time would treat anybody regardless of financial status or race, and hookworm (starts out as a skin infection called creeping eruption, which can turn into intestinal hookworm, potentially fatal), ringworm, impetigo, tuberculosis, polio, yellow fever and every imaginable tropical disease and infection were rampant.   Another Conger sister lived just five doors away from us for many years until she became too feeble and moved on; she would brag about her brother and family endlessly, especially when she was "in her cups".   Other than that, she mostly kept to herself.  

When the Congers left, a new doctor, Billy Rentz, took his place and built a new building with, a "modern" glass-block front, on 17th Ave. right around the corner.  He'd been there quite a while when we arrived in 1960.  He continued the Conger's practice, including surgeries, something almost unheard of today.  In fact my husband had surgery there with general anesthesia as late as the seventies.  By then the population was changing, HMO's were becoming more common and operations were done primarily in hospitals, so Dr. Billy retired, leaving the practice to a group of newcomers.  The quality of care began to decline as their clientele and income dropped, and they finally left it to the new Humana HMO group that built a facility catty-corner across the street on the Dade Theatre/Live and Live Live Drug Store site.

The Conger family were an important part of Allapattah's history, yet I find no mention of them anywhere on the web.  A shame....

Last edited on Mon Feb 9th, 2004 04:58 am by bessnfloyd



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Mike Humeston
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 Posted: Sun Feb 8th, 2004 06:42 am

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Was that a Western Auto store I remember on the west side of the main drag in Allapattah? I was born at Northwest Hospital on 79th street and lived at 1760 N.W. 77th Street most of my youth. Used to leave the house on school days and catch the Coast Cities Coach bus at the corner of 17 Ave. and 79th St. My father owned the small grocery store there. I would get off the bus at 62nd Street and then use the paper transfer to get on the eastbound bus that took me to Miami Edison Senior. Did West Little River Elementary prior to this. 
The big deal for me was Saturdays when I could go to Allapattah and visit the sundry store and buy coins for my coin book. Our neighbors were the Ashleys. They were a wild and at times desperate lot, that had a gang in the 1930s and wreaked all kinds of mayhem.

From reading some of the past postings on this forum, it seems there is very little left of the old town. Are there any pictures on the web of the old town? I remember Musa Isle. Used to go there and wait for my friend to get stuff from his chickee so we could fish the Miami River. Any pics of this around? Thanks, Mike

Last edited on Mon Feb 9th, 2004 04:59 am by bessnfloyd

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 Posted: Sun Feb 8th, 2004 06:46 am

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You predate our residence in the area considerably.  But your memory is right on the spot.  I had completely forgotten the Western Auto Store; I believe it was between 15th and 17th Ave. on the north side of NW 36 St.  In the months after our son Mark was born at the end of 1960, there were a couple of incidents in which Floyd had to brake the car big-time, and flung out a hand to keep baby Mark and me from crashing into the dashboard.   This is something good husbands and fathers did back then, but it also could contribute to loss of control or injury to the driver and wasn't effective in a bad crash.   Seat belts had just become available, so we went to Western Auto and bought two sets, then across the street to the tiny, hole-in-the-wall Dade Hardware to get huge washers and thick tempered bolts, and installed them ourselves.  Later as the effectiveness of these seat belts became obvious, and as our family grew, we bought four more sets; we were probably the only family in Allapattah to drive an old car with 6 seat belts.  We transferred them from car to car for years, through relatives' visits and car pools, and never have had an injury through any number of accidents on Miami's dangerous streets.  Number one rule in our vehicles has always been that the car doesn't move until everyone has their seat belt buckled, front and back.  


 


Back in 1959 and 1960 a really huge supermarket had been built, I think on the northeast corner of 79th Street and 27th Ave (might have been one main street south).  It had huge bins piled with produce of all kinds, and crushed ice heaped with scallops, shrimp, lobster, snapper and frog's legs, banks of coolers with sausage, lunch meat, cheeses and dairy, display cases of every kind of meat and poultry, and all cheap!   The previous large supermarket had been Shell's on 7th Ave, a major phenomenon in it's time, but it had already started a downward slide, partly due to I-95 construction practically next door and the changing neighborhood, so we started shopping at the 79th St. store, and I don't think we ever ate better or more economically.  Later the huge Northside Shopping Center grew on the northwest corner 79th St. and 27th Ave., sporting a Sears, Lerners, Hales Health Foods (which was still there a few years ago), and many other chain stores.  


 


In your time, the nearest large shopping area was Allapattah, built way out in the "suburbs" and ********ogous now to big suburban Malls.  As the riots and changing demographics destroyed Allapattah's commercial center, poorer population moved into the Northside area and crime also increased there until most of the large chains moved out of Northside - to Hialeah, North Miami Beach and Miami Lakes.  


 


Back then this area was full of suburban families, nurserymen, military, retirees - remember the trailer park on the north side of 36th Street a couple of blocks west of Miami Jackson?  I think it was called the Bluebell.   It was actually a bare, sad and ugly place by 1960, populated mostly by aging retirees and some widows of the soldiers that had been housed there during World War II and had never returned from overseas. 


 


Orange Blossom Hobby Shop is still there, a couple of blocks further west!   The music store on 17th Ave. at 37th Street is long gone.  So is Allapattah Stationers, a family fixture for many decades, lost as people shopped at the big chains.  Also closed many years ago is the feed store down the way closer to 22nd Ave, and the Country-Western Outfitters on 17th Ave just to the south of 36th Street.  There was a huge unpaved alley area in the back of that block, just east of 17th Ave between 35 St. and 36th, and the mounted police would bring their horses in there midday for a drink and meal while the rider would get lunch at Royal Castle on the corner, or at the big cafeteria at 18th Ave.  My daughter even at 3 years old was crazy about all kinds of animals would always beg to go see if there was a horse.  We would pass through the Western Shop, redolent with the fragrance of new leather saddles tack and fancy boots, and out the back door.  If anyone's mount was there, Elizabeth lost no time in offering a carrot or apple and petting the horsie's nose while Floyd held her up to horse-face level.  Keep in mind that this was in the sixties, in the middle of a huge city, and one starts to get a feel for Allapattah!   I was reminded of this the other day when I noticed a police mount tied to a tree, grazing St. Augustine grass on the verge of 28th St. while the cop lunched at Garcia's Pescaderia, or "fisheria" as the younger Spanglish-speakers sometimes call it.


 


Here's some pictures; click to enlarge and see details:



Musa Isle:  Vintage Postcards



The Miami River


 



Miami International Airport - NW 36th Street


 


If anyone has any old photos of the Allapattah/Melrose and surrounding areas, please forward them via e-mail.

Last edited on Mon Feb 9th, 2004 05:39 am by bessnfloyd



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Mike Humeston
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 Posted: Sun Feb 8th, 2004 06:48 am

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WOW!  The pictures were super.  When I was going to Musa Isle I seem to remember a tall wall around most of the village.  There was also some kind of historical investigation going on pertaining to a Seminole leader who had left this village in the old days and had gone over to the Cape Florida lighthouse and burned it.  I want to say it occurred sometime around 1825?  The university was interviewing my friend's grandparents about the incident trying to get an oral history.  

My father worked at Hagerman's Mill Works from 1941- 1949.  This was at the northwest corner of 79th and 27Ave.   I hear there is or was a Sears there now.  We did some of our shopping at Earl's Market at 79th and 22nd Ave. 

When the hurricane came through in 1949 we went to some friends'  home in Allapattah to ride out the storm.  We lived in a coral rock house but my father wasn't sure about the windows so we went to Allapattah and stayed there.  I believe this may have been Hurricane King.  There was a lot of damage in Allapattah, but 95% of the homes were untouched.  The local friend said this was because most of the wood frame houses in Allapattah were built from Dade County Pine.   It was cut and sawed into lumber while still green.   Then when it was nailed together while still green and seasoned over time it became still stronger.    

Whatever happened to Funland Park?  I have a few pictures of a sundry store that was on the north side of Allapattah, Sonny's Sundries I think.  Do you want me to scan this picture to you?

Last edited on Mon Feb 9th, 2004 05:00 am by bessnfloyd

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 Posted: Mon Feb 9th, 2004 04:53 am

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I don't know who you are, but I just wanted to let you know how much I enjoyed reading your history of Allapattah. I am a native Miamian. Grew up on 34th Street in the late '40s and through the '50s, attended Melrose Elementary, Robert E. Lee Junior High and graduated from Miami Jackson in '64. Your descriptions gave me chills because that's the Miami of my youth.

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 Posted: Mon Feb 9th, 2004 04:56 am

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Lots of people and agencies in recent years have had a tendency to sort of sweep Allapattah under the rug when dignitaries show up... we're often thought of as the ugly stepchild of Miami.  Bad assessment!  It's true that median income is one of the lowest in the area.  Why?  They include homes for the elderly, projects for the poor and disabled, foster and group homes, jails, holding facilities, juvenile hall, nursing facilities for long-term care, homeless shelters, etc. in the census.  People who basically have no income.  There's probably more crutches, wheelchairs and walkers per square mile in Allapattah than anywhere else in Florida.   





We're often referred to in the Miami Herald as a "low-income neighborhood of recently arrived, poorly educated refugees".   It's true that this is a haven for recent arrivals, many of whom at the beginning have lower income.  It's also true that many blue-collar workers live here (lots of them non-English speaking people who had white-collar professions in their own countries that they cannot qualify for in the USA).   But I have to laugh when the Herald recounts some rather horrid crime and so describes us, especially when the reporter hasn't a clue where Allapattah is, and the crime has taken place north of Grapeland Heights, on the edge of Brownsville or Liberty city, or sometimes even further away.   Even more of the crimes are committed on impulse by someone just passing through and basically have nothing to do with Allapattah.  





About a third of the people six or eight blocks in all directions have lived here for several decades.  A number have businesses here.  Some second generations moved away, and now the third generation has moved back, filling the streets once more with the laughter of children, ringing of ice cream truck bells, impatient horns of school buses, barbeques and birthday parties, ball-playing in the streets, and yes, the rapping and booming music of gangs of youths, their baggy, sagging pants revealing a large portion of underwear.  





People from several countries make up our population, as has always been the case in Allapattah, and within each nationality it seems that a large proportion are somehow related to each other.  This is not so different from the Polish, Italians, Irish and Jews and others who took refuge here from poverty, war and terrorism many decades ago, and the WWII trainers, instructors and returning servicemen who stayed on when the war ended.    





Lots of the Cubans are from Matanzas, for instance, where my daughter Cathy visited many years ago (See Miami's Three Ring Circus), an important farming area of Cuba.  Many residents of all nationalities are from a rural background, as are Floyd and I.  We know our neighbors.  We depend on each other.  We are a true neighborhood, much more so than many soul-less, anonymous suburban tracts miles from everything, where neighbors aren't acquainted, and nasty home invasions often take place.  





Jackson High, often considered a second-rate school by the uninformed, actually has produced some great athletes, and here's a big surprise:  they are one of the tops nationally in high school chess competitions!   How's that for our so-called "low-brow" population?   If you attended Miami Jackson High many years ago, take pride in your Alma Mater.  It's an inner-city school that still has everything going for it!  

Last edited on Mon Feb 9th, 2004 04:57 am by bessnfloyd



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Caroly Braik Jorgensen
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 Posted: Mon Feb 9th, 2004 05:33 am

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I was born in Miami in 1949 at Victoria Hospital, in Miami.  I attended Allapattah Elementary School from 1st to 7th grade, and then went to Miami Jackson from 8th to 12th grade when I graduated in 1967.  I lived on 29th Terrace between 13 and 14th avenue. 1384 N.W. 29th Terrace.  My father had a radio and TV repair shop on 29th street.  I remember much of the businesses that were on 36th street. 

Can I be of any help in adding to the memories?  I also have many related photo's.   I was in Color Guard at Jackson, and band, and I have pictures of our house with the palm tree blown down after hurricane Donna, remember that one?

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 Posted: Mon Feb 9th, 2004 05:34 am

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I sure do remember Hurricane Donna. A big mother-in-law's tongue tree (so called because the dried pods stay on forever and rattle in the wind) in back of our old Dade County pine apartment building came down, crashed into the corner of the house taking out the weather-head, and we didn't have electricity for several days. I've boarded up whenever a hurricane threatened ever since. Please send photos and more info.



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Caroly Braik Jorgensen
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 Posted: Mon Feb 9th, 2004 05:35 am

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It was great to see your web page. I have referred several other people to it. They will enjoy it also.

In "49" Victoria (hospital) was old, I have a picture of it in my baby book. Regarding 36th Street, I remember Ross's was across the street from Jackson, that is where we all hung out. The place was run by Bill Ross, on the corner of 36th St. and 18th Avenue. Also, I worked for what was then Jackson-Byrons after school, in the layaway department. Also one of the most booming businesses was Manley's Jewelry, because we were all into charm bracelets., and he was the jewelry store on 36th Street near Jackson-Byrons. There was also a bakery on the corner at 36th and 17th, don't remember the name, just the donuts, especially the lemon. The Royal Castle (on the corner of 17th Ave. and 36th St.), and down the street was a restaurant that we went to have breakfast on a special Sunday afternoon. The Live and Let Live was where we got our prescriptions filled, and of course Dr. Conger took care of most people. Across the street from Jackson's northeast corner of 17th and 36th was another drug store, and on about 37th street on the corner was the music store where you bought band instruments and sheet music, of which I still have some.  

Many night I walked home from Jackson after a football game and the band bus took us back to the school from the Orange Bowl, it was pretty safe then. There was a murder in the neighborhood, on about 32nd street, just off 12th avenue, a lady named Ethel Little was brutally murdered, and I do remember the details of that. I have so much more that I could tell you if you are interested. My mother who is still living, worked for the State of Florida., she was a social worker who started the foster care program in Miami for retarded children.  

I now live in West Point, Ga., about an hour away from Atlanta. 

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 Posted: Mon Feb 9th, 2004 05:36 am

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Victoria was even older when my husband was hospitalized briefly there in the mid-seventies. Shortly after it was turned into a nursing home, and someone told me it has since been torn down. Wouldn't surprise me.   

The other drugstore was Rexall's. We always used Live and Let Live like almost everyone else in the area, except when Rexall Drugs had one of their famous "buy one, get one for 1ยข" sales, when we stocked up on necessities for six months.

I wasn't here when the Ethel Little murder occurred; what happened? Does anyone else remember it?

I too have some dog-earned piano music books from that that little corner music store, just south of Lindsley Lumber and Dade Plumbing.  

Send photos! Either scan them over the internet, or have copies made at Kinkos or some similar place and e-mail me for an address.  I would truly love to have them.



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 Posted: Mon Feb 9th, 2004 05:43 am

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What a surprise to find a website about Allapattah. I attended Allapattah Elementary, Robert E. Lee Jr. High and Miami Jackson Sr. High. I truly miss what was a wonderful life growing up in the Allapattah region and I have truly enjoyed reading the stories. If only we could go back!

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I am so excited to find this website. I lived in a trailer park beside Funland Park. I have great memories of the place. I lived there in 1964-65. I was 5-6 years old. I remember the Wild Mouse and the "little people" that stood on the wooden boxes to sell tickets in the ticket booths. If anyone can remember anything about the trailer park I am talking about I would love to hear from them. The man that ran the park was named Al Yost. He had a daughter older than me named Jody.  I remember his name because I was his pet out of all of the kids in the park. He would let me ride in the back of his pickup truck.  I had a friend named Wayne that I played with. Wayne and my younger brother got in trouble one time with the law. They went to a nearby store and picked something up that didn't belong to them. Wayne ran away and left my little brother to ride home in the police car. He wasn't on the lamb too long, because my little brother took the police right to his front door! Ha  My parents have long  passed away and I don't have anyone to ask about those times. 

 I just remember the fun times. On Sunday afternoon my parents would put the top down on the convertible and we would go to Miami International and watch the planes come in along with lots of other people in their cars too. Or we would take a watermelon and go to Haulover beach for the afternoon. I remember a drive thru place to buy ice cream that had a cow on top. My brother and I would argue over who saw the cow first! Does anyone remember a pastry truck that would drive around the park? I remember looking in the big windows of the truck at all of the scrumtious looking pastries. The cream horns were wonderful and HUGE!

Those days were so carefree and innocent. I will be anxiously awaiting a reply from anyone who might remember any of these things.  

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Do you have any photos of old Miami Jackson Senior? The current school building is going to be destroyed, after the new building is completed.  there is a group of staff, alumni, and citizens trying to preserve the history of this school with photos & any other related article.

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 Posted: Sat Jun 24th, 2006 10:31 pm

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I do remember the trailer park and one up 79th st called Bell Haven, I had friends at both of them, we hung out at Funland park and I have a lot of fond memories from there. We use to ride the wild mouse, the Bullet or bomber, tilt a whirl, eat to much cotton candy, I have the little pictures from the foto booths (I think they were 6 for a quarter) I got a tatoo at your trailer park from a guy named Stitch, good name for a tatoo artist. We also hung around the Frank N Bun, what fond memories that was. If you happen to have any old pictures of Funland Park or your trailer park I would love a copy for my Reunion Album.

 

Steve

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Does anybody remember the cote kids-- Diane-Larry-William-Tom-Frank-and Mark,They were a big part of allapattah. Comstock Ele..Robert E Lee Jr. and Jackson high. Please let me know--Larry 727-698-0587--lgcmouse@aol.com

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Graduated from Miami Jackson in 1953 ,i dated Phillis Conger a couple times,she died very young from a pimple she picked on her face that got infected,my family also used dr Conger several times,i also had dr.Rentz for a doctor

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 Posted: Wed Jul 5th, 2006 03:31 am

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I shopped at wester auto i had a wizzerd motor that i purchased from them and installed it on my Swinn bicycle

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 Posted: Wed Jul 5th, 2006 09:09 pm

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How about Fred Sanders driving range?? Next door to Extoic Gardens

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 Posted: Wed Jul 5th, 2006 10:07 pm

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I remember the driving range very well! After shopping trips, we often stopped and stood or sat in the shade with the babies watching golfers practice their swing. Wagner Creek went all the way up to 28th St then, and slices often hit the water. Remember the big stand of bamboo between the range and the back of Exotic Gardens main building? That's now a park, called Dominican Park around here, as that's where all the fiestas are held for and by people from the Dominican Republic.



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