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GE XL44 Oven wont work - Large Appliance Problems - Product Problems, Searches & Information - Sneakykitchen Forums
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 Posted: Tue Jul 17th, 2007 02:15 am
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sean
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Mana: 
I have a GE XL 44 model JGBS20BEW2AD that is 10 years old.  With the help of GE Answer Center, I diagnosed the problem as a faulty ignitor.  The representative informed me that the part is $73.50, and the service call would cost $79.95 (plus labor time).  I called a local parts store and found the replacement ignitor (part WB13K21) for $59.95.  Thanks to this forum, I looked for it on EBAY and found it for $18.89.  Thanks to "supplystuf" on EBAY, I realized that I will need the wing nuts and not the plastic connector, which lead me to part WB2X9998 on EBAY, for only $12.95.  Gotta love the internet!

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 Posted: Wed Jul 18th, 2007 01:29 am
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Guest
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I'm hoping one of the folks who successfully repaired this problem is still listening...my igniter is bad but I can't figure out how to remove the igniter from the burner bar without removing the burner bar also. 

I've loosened the burner bar, but my burner bar has a U shaped metal piece that attahces on one end over the gas nipple using a washer and on the other end goes up and over the buner bar sitting less than 1/8" above the burner bar.  I am able to turn the burner bar freely left and right and raise it slightly until it bumps into this metal U shaped piece.

I don't see any easy way to remove the burner bar without removing this U shaped piece or am I missing completely obvious ??   My unit is older than most of those being discussed (about 12 years) ...

Thanks.

Jeff

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 Posted: Thu Jul 19th, 2007 02:25 pm
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Guest
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Mana: 
I'll reply back to how I fixed the problem.  The U shaped piece was manhandled and bent back to the back of the oven, allowing the burner bar to be removed.  Saw no other way to fix it.  Brute force and no hammer was involved...but that would have been more fun.

Jeff

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 Posted: Sun Aug 19th, 2007 03:31 pm
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kswavey@netzero.net
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Giulia wrote: Hello All

I just started having the same problem with my gas, self-cleaning Spectra XL44 as eveyone else:  top burners work, broiler works, display works but the oven won't heat up.  Can someone tell me if there is a specific part number for the igniter?  I got mine from Sears and the model # is SGBP28DED1WH

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 Posted: Sun Aug 19th, 2007 04:34 pm
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bessnfloyd
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Try the Repair Clinic with this info; they can help you.

http://www.repairclinic.com/0070.asp




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 Posted: Sat Sep 8th, 2007 07:34 pm
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Kathy
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We bought 3 GE products at once--a promotion that lowered the prices!  BIG MISTAKE!  The dishwasher cannot dispense the soap because of a design flaw that allows water to enter the soap cup and clump up the soap.  GE says I should call a repairman!  Maybe I could find a "designer" repairman!  The refrigerator has not been able to dispense crushed ice--there are just big chunks.   AND, like all of you, the XL44 Spectra oven has reached the 5 year mark, and the oven won't go past the 100 degrees.  SAY....are all these appliances made in CHINA?????

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 Posted: Sat Sep 8th, 2007 10:05 pm
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bessnfloyd
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It's not where they are made; it's where they were designed, and unfortunately, that's probably right in the good ole USA.  Companies take shortcuts and rush things to market to make sales; in the long run, this is harmful to their reputation and their financial bottom line.

Another thing that has gone by the wayside is service; by eliminating service as much as possible, or charging an arm and a leg, companies save huge amounts of money.   and service contracts are no longer a good buy.  We just cancelled Sears whole house service after almost 30 years.  It was VERY expensive and the service the past two years was abominable with a few outstanding exceptions. 

I used to buy near top of the line appliances, care for them, and they would last for decades.  I just got rid of a 50 yr+ stove, and had two air conditioners that lasted 20 years and a dryer for 38 years; I was highly satisfied with their performance.  Unfortunately, this means less profit for the manufacturers; they have gone from planned obsolescence to a dismal record of design flaws and shortcuts.

I bought a $1000 side by side Whirlpool refrigerator, formerly my brand of choice, to replace my 28 year old Whirlpool.  It worked fine but the rust at the bottom of the door was preventing it from sealing and obviously it was near it's life's end.  The new one has so many design flaws I hate to enumerate them.  The worst is the ice dispenser.  The drawer is way too small for the slots and wiggles from side to side.  Unless we can locate it directly in the middle, dispensing ice is a ten minute job.  It also forces the arm up when the ice is full, stopping the refill function, and next thing we know we are on the last cubes.  The shelves are so far away from the back wall that things fall off the back constantly - frequently all the way to behind the produce drawers.  The very bottom drawer freezes in place from time to time and I have to manually defrost that area to get the drawer open.  Etc, etc, etc....   

The only way we can get the word out is by complaining publically.  Keep those letters of complaint coming.



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 Posted: Tue Sep 18th, 2007 12:48 am
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KatesMom
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I just started having a similar problem with my gas stove GE XL44 Model JGBS15GER6 as eveyone else:  top burners work that is all. I replaced the Ingitor so now it glows like it should and the gas comes on after it is on for a few seconds but it still does not light. I waited for about 90 seconds and then turned it off as I began to smell the gas. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance for your help.

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 Posted: Sat Sep 29th, 2007 07:39 am
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doorbox
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I have NEVER owned a GE product that lasted very long.   A telephone, a stereo, light bulbs, and now an oven.

Well, the oven is still alive, but is on it's 5th igniter.   The oven (GE calls it a gas range), an XL44, model JGBP30 WEW1WW, is almost 11 years old.

The igniter that came with it lasted 4 years. I had it serviced then for $110 (40 labor, 70 igniter).

Two years later I had the same problem, so I purchased an igniter locally for about 50 bucks and installed it myself.

Again, about 2 years went by and the igniter was toast, so I went on ebay and found someone peddling two of them for around $25 each.

Well, about 2 years later (today) I had to replace it again, so I went into my tool room looking to see if I had one laying around, and there it was.

I'm tired of replacing this thing.

It takes me about 2 hours to replace it because I drop the bottom out of the oven. I don't want to mess around with the burner.

I have seen these igniters priced from $15 to $137.

My original igniter lasted about 4 yrs and all the replacements about 2 yrs.

I wish I could find a lifetime warranty on these.

 

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 Posted: Sat Sep 29th, 2007 07:43 am
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doorbox
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Hi,   where can I find a lifetime warranty on an igniter?

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 Posted: Sat Sep 29th, 2007 12:20 pm
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Kathy
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I followed "Lake Lady's" (2/26) post and replaced the igniter by myself.   Don't call a repairman--why add insult to injury?   It is truly not difficult to replace (especially if I can do it!).  Just had to find the right tools (a wire stripper and correct screwdriver) which was the hardest part!  BUT...the next time the igniter goes out, I will buy a different brand.  By then, it will be at the end of its useless life.

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 Posted: Sun Nov 23rd, 2008 12:23 am
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dmstern
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lakelady wrote: Pull the stove out about a foot and unplug the oven (the back at the top left side). Check to see if the clock goes out or if the oven light doesn't work to make sure there is no power to the stove. Remove the oven door by pulling up and out.... it is heavy! Take out the oven racks. Then remove the two thumb screws on the bottom at the back to remove the oven bottom. You need to pull up the back side of it and pull toward the back to take it out.  Also remove the drawer (lift the nylon extensions at the front edge of the drawer support/glide and pull toward you).       Inside the oven, remove the two hex head screws holding the igniter to the burner tube to the frame.  Remove those two screws to release the old igniter. Clip the two wires on the old igniter close to the ceramic housing and remove the igniter. (You clipped the wires just to ease the removal of the old igniter.) Now look under the oven, and at the back, you'll see the plastic connection with the clipped wires attached. Pinch the plastic connector and remove the clipped wires.  Get back up and put the new igniter on the tube assembly in the oven just like the old one was with the two screws. Tuck the plastic connector down the left side of the hole and slide the two wires down and back inside the hole on the right, one at a time, taking care not to damage the plastic connector. (This mmakes perfect sense when you are looking at it.) Plug in the wires from the new igniter where the old one was removed (under the oven). Plug the oven back into the wall outlet. Put the stove bottom back in place and return the thumb screws to their holes. (Put everything back together.) Set the control to bake and it'll work if the igniter was the problem.

I modified the wonderful instructions from lakelady because my oven is just a little different--it was easier because I did not need to clip the wires on the new igniter. I only clipped the old igniter wires because it made it a snap to remove.

If I hadn't found this website I might have called a repair service. It took me ten minutes from start to finish. Thanks to everyone for all your help!

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 Posted: Mon Nov 24th, 2008 01:33 pm
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lakelady
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Lake Lady here. Glad the instructions helped out fellow DIYers. We have not had any further problems with the stove. But we are now considering new stainless appliances. We don't have the budget for top of the line. Probably mid range. Definitely want a gas stove. There is a Frigidare at Lowe's with a center griddle we like. Does anyone know about the Frigidare line?

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 Posted: Mon Jul 13th, 2009 11:14 pm
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Michiman
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Anyone else have this issue? My ignitor glows, lights the oven..then it goes out..and re-lights a few seconds later..and keeps on cycling like this.

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